Larry and Spencer Go to Xinjiang, China

or 10 Days West of Fast Food


Home
Shanghai
Urumqi
Kashgar
Turpan
Dunhuang
Beijing
E-Mail Us

 
Kashgar, July 20-23, 2001:  We had a great 3 days in Kashgar (variously spelled Kashi or Qashqar, if you're trying to find us on the map). Kashgar is just north of the Pakistan border in far western China. The locals are Uyghurs pronounced "WE gur"), not Han Chinese, and are related to the Turkish people. They look just like Turks and are very Muslim - mosques were everywhere. Our 3 days seems like 2 weeks as we were very busy and there was much to see. On the first day, we took a tour up the Karakoram Highway that connects Kashgar with Pakistan. This "highway" is actually a 2 lane, often washed away, road that climbs from 3,000 feet at Kashgar to 18,000 feet at the Pakistan border. We went as far as Karakkul, a lake at 11,000 feet, before turning around. Karakkul is a beautiful, large lake with a 26,000 foot peak right behind it. We did manage to get Spencer (Larry's friend who is with us) up on a camel that some of the local folks brought over for the occasion. 

SCENES FROM THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY SOUTH OF KASHGAR
 

LARRY AND SPENCER AT KARAKUL LAKE - 11,200 FEET
KIRGHIZ MINORITY GROUP IN THEIR HOME - A TENTLIKE STRUCTURE CALLED A "YURT"
KIRGHIZ CHILDREN ALONG THE HIGHWAY
WE'RE FOLLOWING A CHINESE ARMY TRUCK UP TO THE FRONTIER
KARAKUL LAKE
SPENCER, LARRY, NEIL, AND MIKE ON THE KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

Day 2 we went to the Sunday market in Kashgar. All of the neighboring farmers head to town to buy and sell. There were thousands of people jammed together selling horses, sheep, goats (imagine the smell), fresh fruit, bread, you name it. I think this is the point at which Spencer went into culture shock. This huge market occurs every Sunday morning and is the big social and business event of the week. Much shouting, haggling, dirt, and confusion. At least 3 of us had a great time there. We ended the day at the Caravan Cafe, a cafe owned and operated by 2 young Americans. We finally had ice in our drinks and recognizable food to eat. Of course, this is where Neil got the bug that has laid her out for 2 days. 

SCENES FROM THE KASHGAR SUNDAY BAZAAR
 

THEY LOOK LIKE BAGELS AND THEY TASTE LIKE BAGELS, POPULAR UYGHUR FOOD
FATHER AND SON BAKING
BOYS TENDING SHEEP AT THE KASHGAR SUNDAY MARKET
BOY SHEARING SHEEP AT KASHGAR MARKET
CARPET VENDOR WONDERING WHY I WANT A PHOTO BUT NOT A CARPET
HORSES, DONKEYS, AND TRACTORS ALL ARE COMMON FORMS OF TRANSPORT

Day 3 Larry, Spencer, and I toured some mosques, a large cemetery, and some market areas. Spencer has recovered from shock and is back to his old self. We had lunch at some rich Uyghur family's home - much bigger house than any of us live in - Mao Tse-Tung would be rolling in his grave if he could see it. 

PEOPLE AND SCENERY OF KASHGAR
 

READY FOR LUNCH WITH RICH UYGHUR FAMILY
LARRY AND SPENCER WITH OUR HOSTESS
SCENE IN "OLD TOWN" KASHGAR 
OUR TOUR GUIDE WITH HIS WIFE AND SON 
UYGHURS DANCING IN NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT
THE ROAD LEADING OUT OF KASHGAR.  POPULAR TREES ARE USED AS WINDBREAKS

Kashgar, like many towns in China, is far larger than one might expect.  Located among 3 mountain ranges and thousands of miles from the main population of China, it still has a population of 300,000 people.  In my mind, it was an end of the world place, but actually it is a town with wide boulevards, new apartment buildings, and a very, positive attitude.  It also has the 2nd largest statue of Mao Tse Tung still standing in China.  We asked the tour guide why it was still around.  He said that everyone was too busy to tear it down.